Southern Italy begins to cool in early November with a
little mist, a little rain, and a little sun. Our adventure began on Sunday
early afternoon with a drive up to Casa Gregorio nestled in the village of
Castro dei Volsci. On November 3rd, 2019, three faculty, four
students, and six community members ascended to this small hilltop medieval
village in the Italian countryside about sixty miles southeast of Rome. Our home
for the week was an historic residence of nobility, renovated by owner and
visionary, Gregory Aulensi. On our first day, Gregory welcomed us into his home
as though we were dear friends. Each and every staff member matched this warmth
and hospitality.
Shortly after settling into our bedrooms throughout
Palazzo Gregorio, we embarked on a walking tour of our new neighborhood to
learn some history of Castro dei Volsci and how it was impacted by
bombings from Allied forces during World War II. We had a chance to tour the village church and were introduced to the
patron saint, St. Olivia. According to local legend, Saint Olivia shielded Castro dei Volsci and her inhabitants against bombings from Allied forces during World War II, saving the village from total destruction.
Set atop the village, overlooking the Ciociaria valley, stands Mamma Ciociara. She represents and honors the heroic courage and sacrifice of the Ciociaria women who attempted to protect themselves and their daughters from violence and rape at the hands of French soldiers during World War II and after the Battle of Monte Cassino (we'll visit this site later in the week).
 |
Our group at the statue of Mamma Ciociara
|
"
CASTRO DEI VOLSCI is a town in the heart of the Ciociaria, 100 kilometers from Rome, on the Rome-Cassino-Naples railway line. In 1964, the Ministry of education proclaimed it an area of particular interest to the public for its panoramas of extraordinary beauty and for the considerable significance, both aesthetic and traditional, of the heights of the town. In fact, from the slopes of the ancient tower, where, according to popular tradition, the legendary queen Camilla and her father Metabus took refuge in a cave, it is still possible to admire a varied and evocative spectacle. On foggy days, one might be on the deck of a ship setting sail on a gray and stormy sea; what seem to be sunny islets are the peaks of nearby hills. When the sky is clear, one stands upon the stage of a gigantic theater: from Palestrina to Cassino, The towns and villages of the valley sit atop the distant mountains as on steps built by the Cyclopes. On summer nights, the landscape becomes enchanting and one has the impression that the broad starry sky seems to spread itself at one's feet like a carpet. The inhabited area, on the southern slope of the hill, still maintains intact, with arches, towers and bare stone walls, the appearance of a medieval hamlet, built dose around the fortress. The countryside, which extends to the right bank of the river Sacco, is densely populated and studded with charming houses."
Each of the next fours days was filled to the brim with
stunning vistas, rich history, generous people, and delicious food. Each day
consisted of morning to late afternoon tours with a mix of local culture and
history, followed by course-themed cooking classes, and concluded with a group
dinner in one of the Casa’s stunning, thoughtfully decorated rooms.
 |
| View of Ciociaria from my terrace. |
 |
| Chiesa di S. Olivia |
 |
| "Streets" of Castro dei Volsci |
 |
Tiramisu.... my favorite!
|
Comments
Post a Comment